It happened to be Ramadan when I was traveling, so the train to KL was absolutely jammed. I had a reserved seat, but that didn't matter. There were people on the roof, hanging out the windows, sitting in the aisles, on the arm rests, etc. There was no way to get up to pee or eat or anything.

At one point we stopped at a station and on the other side of the train where I was sitting I could see a bar within. I climbed out the window, crawled under the train and made a beeline for the bar where I bought six bottles of Guiness.

I shared these with my seat mate about whom all I can remember is that she was British and quite grateful for the Guiness. I realize it was a total slap in the face of the Muslims on board to be drinking alcohol during their Holy Month, but I was a young and thirst crazed foreigner just coming down from a three day opium high. I needed those beers.