When I got to KL I had little hope of getting a train ticket out that night but I decided to check anyway. There was one place left in a first class sleeper. Now I couldn't really afford that, but I used a twenty pound note that I had squirreled away which just covered it.

There used to be a big old colonial style hotel there at the rail station in KL. I decided to continue the splurge and dine there. The dining room was perfect: big thick walls with high archways, potted palms, formally dressed wait staff and a daily menu that looked like it was manually typed out on an old Royal typewriter. The atmosphere was marred only by the portable TV that was blaring out the Sonny and Cher Show.

When I boarded the train I was amazed. It too was like something out of the past: mahogany paneling, polished brass, flowers in the room, show shine service, a big ceramic commode. Just lovely. My cabin mate was the Nissan Dealer from Brunei who clearly knew how to travel well.